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The Color Guide

A Guide to Wise Owl Chalk Paint Colors

All 73 Wise Owl Chalk Synthesis paint colors. Below you'll find which colors pair well, how to paint with no sanding, which top coats to use, how much paint you need, and much more. An environmental scientist formulated it, and a Michigan family that's made paint since 1891 makes it. It sticks to most furniture with no sanding or priming, and it's Zero VOC, meaning none of the fumes most paints give off.

Please read first

An unofficial guide

Stellar Luxe is an independent retailer. We sell Wise Owl Chalk Synthesis Paint, and we made this guide because we love it. Wise Owl Paint did not write it, review it, or endorse it.

Every color in this guide belongs to Wise Owl. Wise Owl and Chalk Synthesis Paint are trademarks of Wise Owl Paint. The color chips are printed from Wise Owl's published chips. The numbers and descriptions next to them (LRV, lightness rank, warm or cool, and undertone) are our own estimates, not Wise Owl's specifications.

The pairs, trios, and advice in this guide are our opinions. For anything about a specific Wise Owl product, contact Wise Owl at wiseowlpaint.com.

All credit for the paint and its colors goes to Wise Owl.

Why Wise Owl

Why we sell Wise Owl

We carry Wise Owl Chalk Synthesis Paint because it's the best chalk paint we've used. Our customers keep coming back for it, and here's why.

It's made from scratch in Michigan.
Wise Owl makes the paint in Michigan, with a green certified team. Every ingredient goes into the mix at once. That's why the paint is smooth and even in the can.
A scientist made it in her own kitchen.
Karen Chouinard, the founder, is an environmental scientist. A store-bought chalk paint wiped off her kitchen table two days after she painted it, so she tested her own formulas in that kitchen. The one she trusted became Chalk Synthesis Paint.
Clay based mineral paint, with nothing you don't want in it.
It's made without unnecessary fillers or harsh solvents. The ethylene glycol and methanol found in some paints aren't in it. It's zero VOC (volatile organic compounds, the fumes most paints give off) and odor free within hours.
It sticks with no sanding and no priming.
It grips most furniture as it is. Wash the piece and start painting. The prep that stops most people from starting is gone. Cabinets, tile, and floors are the exception: they're always primed first.
Rich pigment and real coverage.
The color is deep and full. A pint covers about 80 square feet, a quart about 160, and a gallon about 640. One thin coat gives you the color. A second gives you fuller color.
It holds up.
The color is fade and UV resistant, so a piece in a sunny room stays the color you painted it. Brushes rinse clean with water. It dries fast.
The whole line, from primer to topcoat.
Wise Owl makes the Stain Eliminating Primer, the paint, and every finish that goes over it: Varnish, One Hour Enamel Clear, Furniture Wax, Furniture Salve, and Glaze. They're made to work together, so you never have to guess whether a topcoat will fight the paint.
Pros and first-timers buy the same can.
In our store and on our Etsy shop, the same paint goes home with professional furniture painters and with people painting their first dresser. Pros pick it for the finish and the coverage. First-timers pick it because there's no sanding, no priming, and no fumes. It works the same for both.

For any color you like in this guide, go to the color chart below. You can buy all of them there.

Colors shift on every screen and printer, so test a 2 oz sample on your piece before you buy a full size.

Every color in this guide is a Wise Owl color. We stock all 73 of them, in every size, and we're proud to sell them.

How to read the chart

How to read the chart

Under every color on the chart are a code, a lightness number, a place in line, and a note on which way it leans.

The colored squares on the chart are chips. Each chip is one color, as it prints on this page or shows on your screen.

In the corner of each chip is a six-character code, like #90B0AF. That's the color's hex code. A hex code is the code screens and printers use to name an exact color. Every color has one, and no two colors share one.

What it can't promise

The code doesn't promise the paint will match the chip. The code describes the chip on this page or on your screen. The paint is mixed pigment on wood. Light, sheen, and the surface all change how a color reads, so the dresser in your room will never be a perfect match for a printed square. A 2 oz sample on your piece is the only way to be sure.

What it's good for

Type the code into the search bar on your phone or computer, and the color comes up on that screen. Send the code to a friend, and she sees the same chip you're looking at. Hold that screen next to a photo of your fabric, your rug, or your wall to see whether the colors sit well together.

It's also handy for telling two close colors apart. Snow Owl is #F6F6F6 and Antique Villa is #F9F8F4. They look alike on the page, and the codes tell you they're two different whites.

  • The chip. This color as it prints on this page.

  • The hex code. The name screens and printers use for this exact color.

Higgins Lake · LRV 40 · lightness 18 of 73 · Cool, slight blue-green undertone

The Color Chart

Every color, sorted by family

Each chip below matches Wise Owl's official color chip for that shade. Tap any color for a closer look, its pairings, and where to buy it. You can also compare shades side by side.

Colors may vary with your screen settings. Try a 2 oz sample on your piece before you commit.

73 of 73 colors

Whites and Creams

Beiges and Warm Neutrals

Grays and Blacks

Green Grays and Sages

Blues

Teals and Deep Greens

Yellows, Oranges and Browns

Reds, Pinks and Plums

Which white

Which white, from warmest to coolest

Every color with an estimated LRV above 75, from warm to neutral. Ordered by how warm the undertone is, not by LRV. None of these whites leans cool. If you want a white with a cool, gray edge, the next step down is Limestone (LRV 71), a neutral.

Which white, from warmest to coolest
ColorLRV
BlushWarm · slight peach undertone85
Isles AveWarm · slight yellow undertone84
KashmirWarm · slight yellow undertone78
White BirchWarm · slight yellow-green undertone83
Antique VillaNeutral · no undertone94
BoneNeutral · no undertone76
Snow OwlNeutral · no undertone92

How to choose

Think about where the piece will live. Near warm wood floors and cream walls, a warm white (Blush, Isles Ave, Kashmir, White Birch) blends in, and a neutral white (Snow Owl) can look blue. Near gray floors and bright white trim, a neutral white matches, and a warm white can look yellow.

Antique Villa sits between the two groups. Its chroma (how strong its color is) is 2.1, just under the neutral cut, with a faint yellow lean. That's why it's the most popular neutral for cabinets.

Whites need more paint, and on some woods a primer

Whites, red, and black need the most coats because of their pigments, so plan on more paint when you paint white. Read the 3 coat column.

Use White primer under whites and light colors on woods that bleed (mahogany, knotty pine, cherry) and on any white piece from the Depression era.

For a topcoat on white, use Varnish or clear Furniture Wax. Neither one yellows. Furniture Salve is made with hemp oil, which can tint whites, so skip it on a white piece.

Pairings Wise Owl recommends

Color pairings that work

Wise Owl named these pairings in its color guides. Every color here is available in our store.

Colors that go with everything

The safest colors on the chart

Each of these goes with every other color in the line. Most of them are neutrals, or close to it. Higgins Lake is the one blue that goes with every neutral.

What we mean by each word

A pair is two colors on one piece, or on two pieces that sit together. One is the main color and covers most of the surface. The other is the second color: the drawer fronts, the inside, the top, or the trim.

A trio is three colors. We call the roles main, second, and third. The third isn't always a small accent. Sometimes it's a whole piece across the room.

A palette is any set of colors you've decided belong together, two, three, or more. Every pair and trio in this guide is a small palette.

Pairs we recommend

Pairs that work, and why

Every pair below passes one test. The two colors are at least 15 LRV points apart, so they read as two colors from across the room. Under each pair you'll find the gap in numbers, whether the two lean the same way, and where each color goes on the piece.

  • Tide line

    Main: Sea Salt · Second: Vintage Denim

    Sea Salt is LRV 59 and Vintage Denim is LRV 10, a gap of 49 points, so the two look clearly different from across the room. Both lean cool, so they look like they belong together. Paint the body of the piece in Sea Salt and the drawer fronts in Vintage Denim.

    A dresser in a bedroom or a guest room.

  • Harbor light

    Main: Higgins Lake · Second: Antique Villa

    Higgins Lake is LRV 40 and Antique Villa is LRV 94, a gap of 54 points. Higgins Lake leans cool and Antique Villa is a neutral with no undertone, so the white doesn't pull the blue warmer or colder. Paint the island or the body in Higgins Lake and the cabinets around it, or the trim, in Antique Villa.

    A kitchen island with the cabinets around it, or a hutch in a dining room.

  • Morning fog

    Main: Wuthering Heights · Second: Snow Owl

    Wuthering Heights is LRV 30 and Snow Owl is LRV 92, a gap of 62 points. Wuthering Heights leans cool with a slight blue undertone, and Snow Owl is a neutral white, so the gray keeps its soft blue look. Paint the vanity or the nightstand in Wuthering Heights and the top, the trim, or the inside of the drawers in Snow Owl.

    A bathroom vanity, or a pair of nightstands in a bedroom.

Trios we recommend

Where each color goes

Each trio gives every color a job. The main color covers the most, the second comes next, and the third covers the least or is one piece across the room. Every color is at least 15 LRV points from the other two.

  • Low tide

    Main: Sea Salt · Second: Prussian Blue · Third: Bone

    Sea Salt is LRV 59, Prussian Blue is LRV 8, and Bone is LRV 76, so every gap is at least 17 points. Sea Salt and Prussian Blue both lean cool, and Bone is a neutral, so the three look like they belong together. Paint the body in Sea Salt, the back panel in Prussian Blue, and the trim and shelf edges in Bone.

    A hutch in a dining room.

  • Harbor morning

    Main: Higgins Lake · Second: Antique Villa · Third: Raven

    Higgins Lake is LRV 40, Antique Villa is LRV 94, and Raven is LRV 1, so every gap is at least 39 points. Higgins Lake and Raven both lean cool, and Antique Villa is a neutral, so the three look like they belong together. Paint the island in Higgins Lake, the cabinets in Antique Villa, and the pantry door or one hutch in Raven.

    A kitchen with an island, cabinets, and a pantry door.

How to build your own

How to put two or three colors together

The steps below show you how to choose colors that look good together on one piece or in one room. By the end you'll be able to pick a main color, add a second and a third that go with it, and know which color goes where.

  1. Step 1: Choose your main color.

    The main color is the color that covers the most of what you're painting. On a dresser, that's the body. In a kitchen, that's the cabinets. Choose it for the job the piece does. A piece that gets touched all day hides marks better in a mid or dark color. A piece in a dim corner shows up better in a light color.

    Example. You want a kitchen island in Dried Thyme, a soft gray green. The chart lists it at LRV 18. LRV is how light or dark a color is, from 0 (black) to 100 (white). At 18, Dried Thyme is on the dark side. Up close you'll see the green. From across the room it looks like a deep, calm color that hides fingerprints.

    Check: the LRV number under your color. Under 20 hides marks best. 20 to 59 shows the color and hides everyday wear. 60 and up brightens a dark spot.

  2. Step 2: Choose a second color at least 15 LRV points away.

    The second color goes next to the main color: the drawer fronts, the top, the trim, or the cabinets around an island. Find both colors on the chart. Subtract the smaller LRV from the bigger one. If the answer is 15 or more, the two will look like two colors from across the room. If it's under 15, they'll blur into one.

    One more rule. Don't pair two colors that are both under LRV 10. Two very dark colors look like one dark mass from a few steps back, even when they look different up close.

    Example. Cream cabinets around the Dried Thyme island. Kashmir is a warm cream at LRV 78. 78 minus 18 is 60, well over 15. You'd see a clearly dark island against clearly light cabinets. A gap of 40 or more looks bold like this. A gap of 15 to 30 looks softer. Sea Salt (LRV 59) beside Higgins Lake (LRV 40) is a gap of 19. You'd see a pale gray green and a soft blue, clearly two colors, but quiet ones.

    Check: subtract the two LRV numbers. You want 15 or more, and not both colors under 10.

  3. Step 3: Read the undertone of each color.

    Under each color on the chart is its undertone line, like "Warm, slight yellow undertone". The undertone is the faint tint hiding in a color. Two colors with the same undertone (yellow with yellow, green with green) look like they belong together. That's the safe choice. Two colors with opposite undertones (a green with a cream, a blue with a peach) make each other look brighter, and that works when the gap from Step 2 is 15 or more. The one mix to avoid is two grays close in LRV with different undertones.

    Example. Dried Thyme reads "Cool, slight green undertone". Kashmir reads "Warm, slight yellow undertone". Those are opposites, and the gap is 60, so it works: the green looks greener and the cream looks creamier. Here is the mix to avoid. Gray Linen (LRV 37, "Warm, slight yellow undertone") next to Celtic Fog (LRV 36, "Cool, slight green undertone") is the same lightness with two different tints. Side by side, Gray Linen looks muddy and Celtic Fog looks cold.

    Check: the two undertone lines. The same, or clearly opposite, is good. Close in lightness but different in tint, skip the pair.

  4. Step 4: Check warm against cool.

    The first word of the undertone line says warm, cool, or neutral. Warm colors lean toward yellow, red, or brown. Cool colors lean toward blue or green. Neutral colors don't lean either way. Warm with warm feels cozy and settled. Cool with cool feels crisp and clean. Warm next to cool has more contrast, and that's fine as long as you chose it.

    Example. Leatherwood (warm, LRV 13) with Natural Light (warm, LRV 61) gives you a brown and a soft yellow that feel like one cozy room. Sea Salt (cool, LRV 59) with Vintage Denim (cool, LRV 10) gives you a gray green and a denim blue that feel like a beach house. Kashmir (warm, LRV 78) with Inkwell (cool, LRV 2) gives you cream against near black, the sharpest look of the three.

    Check: the first word of each undertone line. Two warms or two cools feel calm. One of each feels sharper.

  5. Step 5: If the two colors fight, put a neutral between them.

    Sometimes two colors you love don't look right side by side. Add a neutral. A neutral is a white, gray, or black with no undertone, so it doesn't lean warm or cool. The chart has 12: Antique Villa, Snow Owl, Bone, Limestone, Iconic Gray, Smokey Quartz, Peppercorn, Weathervane, Graphic Slate, Carbon, Wrought Iron, and Jet Black. The five go-with-everything colors do the same job. Gray Linen (LRV 37) is a warm gray beige, but it takes warm and cool accents equally, so it works as a bridge too.

    Example. You want Terracotta (LRV 26, a warm orange) and Higgins Lake (LRV 40, a cool blue) in the same room. The gap is 14, under 15, and it's warm against cool. Put Antique Villa (neutral, LRV 94) between them: a Terracotta hutch, Antique Villa cabinets, a Higgins Lake island. You'd see orange, white, blue. Each color now sits next to white instead of next to the other, so they stop fighting.

    Check: the undertone line of your bridge color. It should say "Neutral, no undertone".

  6. Step 6: Add a third color and split them 60/30/10.

    Three colors used together are a trio. Check the third color against each of the other two the same way: 15 or more LRV points from both. Then give each color a share of the piece. Paint companies like Behr use a 60/30/10 split: the main color covers about 60 percent of what you see, the second about 30, the third about 10. On a dresser: body 60, drawer fronts 30, the top or the inside 10. In a room: the biggest piece is the main, the next biggest is the second, a stool or a frame is the third. You don't need to measure. If the main color covers more than half of what you see and the third covers the least, you're close enough.

    Example. A dining hutch in the Low tide trio. Sea Salt (LRV 59) on the body is the 60. Prussian Blue (LRV 8) on the back panel is the 30. Bone (LRV 76) on the trim and shelf edges is the 10. The gaps are 51, 17, and 68, all over 15. You'd see a pale gray green hutch with a deep blue back wall behind the shelves and light trim.

    Check: which color covers the most. That one is your 60. The color that covers the least is your 10.

A kitchen, built with the steps

Step 1, the main color. You're painting a kitchen: cabinets, an island, and two stools. The cabinets cover the most, so they're the main color. You want them cream. Kashmir is LRV 78, "Warm, slight yellow undertone".

Step 2, the second color. For the island you like Dried Thyme, LRV 18. 78 minus 18 is 60. That's over 15, so the island will stand out from the cabinets, and neither color is under LRV 10.

Steps 3, 4, and 5. Kashmir is warm with a yellow undertone. Dried Thyme is cool with a green undertone. Opposites with a big gap, so the cream looks creamier and the green greener. You're choosing warm against cool on purpose. The two aren't fighting, so you don't need a bridge yet.

Step 6, the third color. The stools. Leatherwood (LRV 13) is only 5 points from the island, so from across the room the stools would blur into it. Grecian Clay (LRV 20) is 2 points away, same problem. Gray Linen (LRV 37) is 19 from the island and 41 from the cabinets. It's the gray beige from Step 5, so it also ties the cream to the green. Split: cabinets 60, island 30, stools 10.

What you'd see. Cream cabinets, a deep green island, and gray beige stools that tie the two together.

  • Cabinets, 60
    Kashmir, LRV 78

  • Island, 30
    Dried Thyme, LRV 18

  • Stools, 10
    Gray Linen, LRV 37

Before you buy: test with 2 oz samples, in the room

Brush each sample on a scrap of wood or on the back of the piece. Two coats. Let it dry. Set the samples in the room where the piece will live and look at them side by side in daylight. Look again at night under the lamps you use. Colors change between the two, and a warm white can turn yellow under a lamp. If you still like them together both times, buy the full size.

Choose the finish last

The topcoat changes how the color looks. Whitewash Glaze makes a piece look weathered, like a beach house. Black Walnut Glaze makes it look older. Black Furniture Wax settles into carved details so they stand out. Clear wax or Varnish leaves the color exactly as painted.

How much paint

Coverage by size, and the size to buy

The coverage figures are below. Measure your piece, pick your coats, and read across. Whites, red, and black need the most coats, so for those colors read the 3 coat column.

Coverage by size, and the size to buy
SizeCovers
2 oz sampleEnough to test the color on your piecea test patch
Pint (16 oz)One coat on a piece up to 80 sq ft80 sq ft
Quart (32 oz)One coat on a piece up to 160 sq ft160 sq ft
GallonOne coat on a run of cabinets640 sq ft

Measure a case piece

Measure width, height, and depth in inches. If you're painting the front, back, two sides, and top:

sq ft = (2 × (W × H + D × H) + W × D) ÷ 144

Example. A dresser 36 in wide, 32 in high, 18 in deep:
2 × (36 × 32 + 18 × 32) + 36 × 18 = 4104 sq in = 28.5 sq ft.
Two coats: 57 sq ft, so 1 pint. Three coats: 86 sq ft, so 1 quart.

Add the drawer fronts and the insides of doors if you're painting them. Bare or porous wood drinks more paint than a finished surface. The coverage figures are approximate.

Colors that need the most coats
Sq ft1 coat2 coats3 coats
151 pint1 pint1 pint
201 pint1 pint1 pint
301 pint1 pint1 quart
401 pint1 pint1 quart
601 pint1 quart1 quart + 1 pint
801 pint1 quart1 quart + 1 pint
1201 quart1 quart + 1 pint2 quarts + 1 pint
1601 quart2 quarts3 quarts
2401 quart + 1 pint3 quarts1 gallon + 1 pint
3202 quarts1 gallon1 gallon + 2 quarts

How the table works: square feet times coats, divided by 80 sq ft per pint, rounded up, then written as the smallest mix of gallons (8 pints), quarts (2 pints), and pints.

Colors that need the most coats

Whites, red, and black need the most coats because of their pigments, so plan on more paint for them. On this chart that means the 7 whites plus Limestone, and Perfect Red, Republic Red, and Jet Black. Buy the 3 coat amount for those.

Prep and primer

When you can skip the primer, and when you can't

Most furniture needs no sanding and no primer before this paint. Cabinets, tile, and floors do, every time. So does bleed-through: tannins in some woods seep up through the paint and stain it.

Woods and pieces that bleed

Mahogany, knotty pine, and cherry are the woods known for bleeding. Any white piece from the Depression era will bleed too, and has to be primed. Light paint shows the stains most.

How to block it

Stain Eliminating Primer. A bonding primer that blocks stains, odors, and tannins. Use it under white or light colors to stop tannin bleed. One quart covers about 160 sq ft. Dry to the touch in 1 hour, recoat in 4 to 6. Some stains need two coats, a stubborn piece a third. On a piece you know will bleed, allow 6 hours between coats. Wait 24 hours after painting before the topcoat.

Shellac. If a stain shows after you paint, brush shellac over it as a barrier, then paint over the shellac.

Pieces that are always primed

Cabinets, tile, and floors are always primed, whatever the color. So is anything you'll finish with One Hour Enamel.

Laminate

Laminate furniture can be primed for a stronger grip, but it usually doesn't need it.

The short version

Cabinets, tile, floors, and anything getting One Hour Enamel: prime, whatever the color. Dark paint on clean, sealed furniture: wash it and paint. Light paint on mahogany, knotty pine, cherry, an old red-stained piece, or a Depression era white piece: White primer first. Not sure of the wood: paint a test patch, let it dry overnight, and look for a stain. If one shows, prime.

Which primer shade under which paint

The right column says which chart colors each rule covers, by the LRV printed on the chart. Wise Owl also sells a Coffee Bean shade. Its page gives no rule for it, so it isn't in this table.

White primer
Under whites and light colors.
LRV 60 and up (lightness 1 to 11)
Gray primer
Under medium colors like yellows and reds.
LRV 20 to 59 (lightness 12 to 32). Its yellows and reds are Dijon, Chartreuse, and Terracotta
Clear primer
Under dark colors, or when you plan to distress. Looks milky in the can and dries clear.
LRV under 20 (lightness 33 to 73), or any color you plan to sand back to bare wood in spots
Dark Gray primer
Under very dark tones.
LRV 4 and below (lightness 60 to 73)

The method

Clean, paint, seal

Most furniture doesn't need sanding or primer before this paint. Cabinets, tile, and floors always get primer first. Wash the piece, brush on thin coats and let each one dry, then seal the paint with a topcoat.

  1. Clean

    Wash the piece with a household cleaner that has no oil in it. Vinegar and water works too. Old furniture polish and wax stop paint from sticking, so wash them off. That's all the prep most furniture needs. Cabinets, tile, and floors get Stain Eliminating Primer after the wash.

  2. Paint

    Shake the paint, then stir it. Brush on one thin coat and let it dry all the way. If you paint over a coat that's still drying, it can lift. Add a second coat if you want fuller color. Whites, red, and black need the most coats.

  3. Seal

    A topcoat is a clear coat that goes over the paint to protect it. The dried paint is porous, so every piece needs one. Pick it by how hard the piece will be used. The table below says which topcoat fits which piece. If you sand the dried paint, it looks lighter for a while. The color comes back when the topcoat goes on.

The method on one dresser

Say it's the dresser above: 36 in wide, 32 in high, 18 in deep, about 28.5 sq ft, going Higgins Lake (LRV 40).

Clean. Wash it with a household cleaner that has no oil in it. It's a dresser, not a cabinet, and it isn't mahogany, knotty pine, or cherry, so it needs no primer. Higgins Lake isn't a white, so bleed isn't a worry either.

Paint. Shake and stir a pint. One thin coat, dry all the way, then a second. Two coats on 28.5 sq ft is 57 sq ft, inside a pint's 80, so 1 pint does it.

Seal. A dresser is an everyday piece, so the table below says Furniture Wax. Brush it on, wait about 20 minutes, and wipe off the excess. Clear wax leaves the color exactly as painted.

Topcoats

Which topcoat for which piece

Pick the finish by how hard the piece will be used, then read across.

Kitchen cabinets, dining tables, and anything that gets heavy use
Varnish, Matte or Satin
It's rated industrial grade for cabinets and pieces that get heavy use. It's water based and dries clear, and it has no amber resins, so it can't yellow. Brush on thin, even coats and let each one dry all the way. Matte keeps the flat look of the paint. Prime cabinets first.
Tabletops, doors, and trim
One Hour Enamel Clear, Matte, Satin, or Semi Gloss
It levels itself as it dries, so brush marks disappear. It doesn't yellow. It's 90 percent cured 4 hours after it dries, so you can use the piece the next day, and fully cured in 14 days. Nothing goes over it, so it's the last coat. Prime the piece first.
Dressers and everyday pieces
Furniture Wax, Clear, Black, or Black Walnut
It's all natural, with no added solvents. Brush it on, wait about 20 minutes, and wipe off the excess. Clear doesn't change the color. Black and Black Walnut settle into carved details. Wax goes on last, because nothing sticks over it.
A soft, hand rubbed sheen, or a piece that's part paint and part bare wood
Furniture Salve
It's a balm of hemp oil and beeswax. It seals the paint and brings back bare wood and leather at the same time. Rub in a thin layer, wait a minute, and buff off the excess with a lint-free cloth. It comes in 19 scents, including Unscented Hemp. Hemp oil can tint whites, so skip it on a white piece.
Outdoor furniture
Varnish, three thin coats
Three thin coats are enough to protect a piece that lives outside.
An antiqued look
Glaze, over one coat of Varnish or One Hour Enamel Clear
Glaze is a tinted finish you brush on and wipe most of the way back off, so the color stays in the carved details and the piece looks older. Seal the paint first. Glaze one section at a time, wipe it back with a damp, lint-free cloth, and let it dry 2 hours. For full protection, add one more coat of Varnish or Enamel Clear over it. Black Walnut makes a piece look older. Whitewash makes it look weathered. Gold, Silver, Copper, and Rose Gold add shine.
Any white piece
Varnish or clear Furniture Wax
Neither one yellows. Furniture Salve is made with hemp oil, which can tint whites, so skip it on a white piece.

Cabinets, tile, and floors are always primed before the paint goes on. So are woods that bleed, every white piece, and anything that will get One Hour Enamel.

The Free PDF

Keep a copy of the guide

The PDF has the full color chart, the pairings, the method, and the topcoat picks. You can save it, print it, and take it to the hardware store. Every color in this guide is available in our store.

Where to buy

Pick your color, pick your size

The hex values, LRV, undertone, lightness rank, and every other number in this guide are our own estimates, worked out from Wise Owl's published color chips. This is an unofficial guide. The opinions in it are ours and are not endorsed by Wise Owl Paint. Every color in it belongs to Wise Owl. For advice about a specific Wise Owl product, contact Wise Owl. How the numbers were worked out: LRV is the chip's CIE Y (the standard measure of how much light a color reflects) under D65 daylight, times 100. Warm, cool, neutral, and the undertone come from the chip's chroma (how strong its color is) and hue angle (which color it leans toward) in the CIELAB and LCH color models, with sRGB inputs as defined in W3C CSS Color 4: chroma under 5 is neutral, 5 to 15 prints "slight", and a hue of 350 through 125 degrees is warm, the rest cool. They are not Wise Owl's specifications. For exact values, contact Wise Owl. Wise Owl and Chalk Synthesis Paint are trademarks of Wise Owl Paint. Stellar Luxe is an independent retailer.