A real bagel is boiled before it is baked. That is the step the supermarket skips, and it is the reason a proper everything bagel has a glossy, chewy crust instead of a soft roll with seeds on it.

This bag holds the four things that are hard to get right: the baking mix, the baking yeast, the malt powder that gives a bagel its colour and its faint sweetness, and FarmSteady’s own everything spice blend of poppy, onion, sesame, dried onion, garlic and salt. You proof, knead, rope, loop, boil and bake. It makes a dozen.

It is a genuinely good way to spend a Sunday morning with people in the kitchen, and the bagels come out of the oven while everyone is still standing around. Not in an everything mood? Leave the spice packet in the bag and make them plain.

From your own kitchen you add an egg, plus water and a little sugar to proof the yeast. Contains wheat. FarmSteady publishes free step by step instructions on its site.