The hard part of feeding children without sugar is not the principle, it is Tuesday. Maria Emmerich built this book around that problem: one hundred and fifty recipes using ingredients you can already buy locally, written for parents who have somewhere between ten and thirty minutes.

The strategy is to rebuild the foods children already ask for rather than to argue with them. Graham crackers, gummy bears, chicken nuggets, tacos, birthday cake. Familiar flavours and familiar shapes, with the sugar engineered out instead of simply removed, so nothing on the plate reads as a substitute.

Halle Berry wrote the foreword. It is a big, generously photographed paperback that lives on a kitchen counter rather than a shelf, and it earns that spot the first week you own it.