Twenty new recipes join more than two hundred that were already the reason cooks kept this book on the counter instead of the shelf. Marianna Olszewska Heberle was born in Poland and writes the way a grandmother teaches, so the pierogi chapter tells you what the dough should feel like under your thumb, not just how many minutes to knead it.

The range is the point. Sour rye soup and clear barszcz, bigos that improves for three days, stuffed cabbage, potato pancakes, kielbasa, and then the whole sweet half of the Polish table: babka, makowiec, paczki, apple pancakes, lazy noodles. Recipes that survived ten centuries of a country being redrawn tend to be good ones.

This is the working edition, revised and expanded, and it is the book to reach for when someone in the family says the food never tastes like it used to. It does here.